Amid Intimate Galleries, a Jewel of a Painting Collection
By ROBERTA SMITH
Published: January 15, 2009
The next several days promise to be unusually euphoric for
the nation’s capital, even by the standards of past presidential inaugurations.
If you’re in town for this historic event and have some extra time, you can
always duck into the National Gallery of Art without clouding your elation.
Thanks to the museum’s magnificent painting collection, the euphoria possible
inside its walls can easily match the mood outside. It may also strike you as
similarly alive with a sense of human possibility.
The National Gallery, founded in 1937 as a gift to the
nation from the financier Andrew W. Mellon, opened its doors in 1941. It is the
jewel in the crown of Washington’s many great museums. It is open, with free
admission, 363 days a year, although this year that number will drop to 362.
Like many institutions along the Mall, it will be closed on Inauguration Day.
Although the gallery has impressive holdings in prints,
drawings, photography, the decorative arts and especially sculpture, it is not
an encyclopedic museum like the Metropolitan Museum of Art and others across
the nation. Its art is almost entirely European and American, and its long suit
by far is painting.
The bulk of the National Gallery’s paintings are arrayed on
its vast main floor, where warrens of wonderfully intimate galleries feed into
two long halls that meet at a domed rotunda. It is as if the arcades of the
Palais Royale in Paris were attached to either side of the Pantheon in Rome.
The galleries are numbered, and the first 25 or so offer an
amazing review of the font of Western painting in 13th- to 16th-century Italy,
especially if you attend primarily to the abundant renderings of the Madonna
and Child. The starting point is “Madonna and Child Enthroned” by Margaritone
d’Arezzo in Gallery 1. Dated around 1270, it encapsulates the gold ground,
frozen poses and flattened space of Byzantine art.
One possible end point is “The Alba Madonna,” Raphael’s
glorious tondo from around 1510 in Gallery 20. Here the Madonna leans toward
the Christ Child like a mother (albeit a very dignified mother) on a picnic;
the graceful, fully rounded figures occupy an immense dome of crystalline,
blue-skied space that stretches out behind them.
In between these two paintings virtually every Italian
painter of the time seems to weigh in on the subject, as well as on how to
render the figure expressively in space. The progression of works gives unusual
force to both the idealism and realism of the High Renaissance. Of course the
Renaissance portraits in these rooms are not small change, starting with
Leonardo’s ineffable “Ginevra de’ Benci” (Gallery 6).
Across the hall the Northern Renaissance and its
repercussions unfold almost as compellingly, with scores of must-see galleries,
including two (48 and 51) devoted to Rembrandt and his school. One of the
choicest places to pause is Gallery 39, where you’ll find three pinnacles of
the astounding realism favored in Germany and the Netherlands.
First is Jan van Eyck’s meticulous “Annunciation,” from
around 1434-6, in which the Angel Gabriel finds Mary in a Gothic church
standing on a carpet whose delicate lines depict scenes from the Old Testament.
Second is Petrus Christus’s grand “Nativity,” from around 1450. The elaborate
manger includes an arch decorated with statues of Adam and Eve and a peaked
roof with green leaves sprouting from a horizontal beam directly above the Christ
Child. Yet this sign of growth and hope is framed by a triangle of spindly wood
that subtly evokes torturously stretched arms, as on the Cross. Third is Rogier
van der Weyden’s luxuriously austere “Portrait of a Lady” of around 1460, her
delicate face framed by white veils in a shape reminiscent of a sphinx.
A quick stop in Gallery 50C, not much bigger than a large
closet, will bring you face to face with Vermeer’s dewy “Girl With the Red Hat”
(1665-66), turning around to peer out of the picture so quickly that you can
almost hear the rustling of her blue silk garment. The space behind her is
muffled by a yellow and green tapestry in soft focus.
On the other side of the rotunda, French Impressionism and a
few galleries of American art await. (More are in the process of being
reinstalled after a temporary exhibition, along with galleries of British art.)
Among the Impressionists, keep an eye out for Cézanne’s rough-surfaced,
all-thumbs portrait of his domineering father in Gallery 83. He is clothed like
a laborer, despite being a banker (as he thought Cézanne should have been) and
is shown seated beneath one of his son’s still lifes, reading a newspaper that
favorably reviewed his son’s work.
Another standout in this section is Gauguin’s “Still Life
With Peonies” (Gallery 84), a relatively unfamiliar work painted in a
quasi-Impressionistic manner but with the deep reds, greens and yellows typical
of Gauguin’s mature style. An early work, it shows Gauguin’s bowing to his
elders, probably by depicting art that he owned: part of a drawing by Degas is
visible, tacked to the wall, along with a village scene that might be by Pissarro.
Acquired by the gallery in 1995, the Gauguin is an early
work painted in 1884, the year he quit his day job as a bank clerk and began to
paint full time, but it conveys the turbulence central to both his life and his
art.
Across the hall the American paintings include examples of
the limpid American landscape style called Luminism and the more flamboyant Ash
Can School. Of particular interest is a gallery (No. 65) devoted to Gilbert
Stuart’s portraits, including those of the first five American presidents
(Washington, Adams, Jefferson, Monroe and Madison), which the National Gallery
has never exhibited together.
My favorite, however, is Stuart’s portrait of Catherine
Brass Yates (Mrs. Richard Yates), possibly one of the nation’s first ladies who
lunch, from 1793-4. Dressed completely in light gray lace or satin or tulle,
this thin, immaculately turned-out older woman looks up from her sewing to
scrutinize us and seems noticeably unimpressed.
It could take quite a bit of time to exhaust the West Wing’s
paintings, but there are more in the East Wing. Just inside the main entrance,
for example, are several tiny galleries of small French paintings, most of them
gifts of Ailsa Mellon Bruce, Mellon’s daughter.
These include a wonderful portrait of a young woman by
Corot, her face tenderly rendered, her plaid dress dashed off with palpable
verve (Gallery 103B); numerous mysterious interiors by Édouard Vuillard; and
another reasonably recent acquisition, Antoine Vollon’s lush “Mound of Butter”
from 1875-85, in Gallery 103D.
The two carefully rendered eggs in front of the butter give
it a monumentality that seems more commercial than domestic. The butter also
evokes a landscape, possibly a quarry, or a pile of clay awaiting its sculptor.
And finally, it is primarily a pile of weightless brushstrokes, perhaps a
comment by this academic artist on the excesses of Impressionism, which was all
the rage during the time “Mound of Butter” was painted.
There are numerous paintings that should be seen upstairs in
the East Wing’s galleries of Modern art, including an early Cubist Braque,
wonderful Fauvist works by Derain, Matisse, Dufy and Marquet, and of course
Matisse’s mini-masterpiece, “Open Window, Collioure,” from 1905 (Gallery 404B),
which looks back to Fauvism and forward to his Nice paintings of the 1920s.
But if you have time for only one painting, see Miró’s
golden, finely itemized work of abstract realism, “The Farm,” of 1921-22, in
Gallery 404E. Once owned by Hemingway and donated to the gallery by his widow,
Mary, it portrays farmyard, fields, barns and animals in a constantly varying
Morse code of dots, dashes, arcs and squares, as well as dabs of paint. Every
detail is at once recognizable, but also reduced to a symbol.
Sometimes the details add up to something monumental; just
spend a little time staring at the cracks, pockmarks and delicious little
flourishes of the tall, white-pink stucco barn. It is a landscape unto itself,
a desert beachscape in advance of Dalí.
Miró painted his farm from the farmer’s point of view, as
seen by someone who knew every pebble and leaf, every pigeon and coop, every
bucket and seed. It is, like all paintings, but a little more directly than
some, a picture of human striving.